Manaus, Brazil

 Last night was again trivia (winners may have cheated?), a musical show/farewell presentation from the crew and dinner in “The Restaurant”. The evening ended with a tribute to the Beatles by the ship’s performers.

 

Bug hunting this morning yielded a large beetle with two insects (mites?) on him. Wonder if they hitchhiked from the shore or found him here? As we sail along the Amazon there are numerous houses on stilts along the bank. But instead of being surrounded by rainforest the land around has been cleared for cattle ranching. Also evident is a lot of erosion of the banks, no doubt enhanced by deforestation. And we won’t talk about Amazon deforestation, the greenhouse effect and climate change. Apparently about 25% of the historic rainforest is now gone. Most of these small “farms” have a small skiff with outboard motor moored against the bank or just in the water.

 Lots of small boat activity around these inhabited areas with the bigger two level boats picking up people along the way, perhaps for their weekly shopping in Manaus – a full day adventure. They have to go out to meet the bigger boat in their little skiff as they don’t have docks and we assume it is shallow near the edge of the river. 

 Manaus (pop. 2.3 million) is situated near the confluence of the Negro and Solimões rivers. The Rio Negro water is black (no silt) and the Rio Solimoes is brown (silty). Together they make up the Amazon. Because they have different densities and temps they don’t mix quickly as can be seen in the pic. The “meeting of the waters”. 

The city is accessed from the ship by local tender (we are anchored in the Amazon again). The tender took us to the largest floating dock in the world - it has to float because of the tremendous difference in the height of the river during the wet vs the dry season. 

We have really been lucky with the weather. We joked that it was because we have been packing two umbrellas around with us every time we leave the ship. Well today did not change that. It rained all night and it had been raining steadily all morning. Our shore excursion this afternoon was mostly a bus tour of the city with a long stop at the military zoo and the sun shone for most of it! Yes, we had our umbrellas. Manaus is a big, bustling somewhat dirty port city. Many of the classic buildings were imported from Europe, piece by piece during the rubber boom. The zoo, started by the military was interesting and featured many of the rain forest animals that would be difficult to see in nature. It is always a conundrum for us on one hand to want to set the well fed comfortable animals free or to appreciate the educational value of the zoo environment.

 Tonight is our last night on the ship. And we will play trivia and pack for our departure to Miami tomorrow. Wish us luck! Will add pictures later as the internet is barely functional today. 

Right now we are sitting in a hotel cooling our heels for several hours while we await transport to the airport. At least we have internet that works!

Beetle with bugs on him!

Deforestation and erosion for cattle.

Local transport.

Meeting of the waters

3.5km bridge (470 million euros) across the Amazon

Opera house

Busy city

A jungle walk

Watch for predators!

Including Boa constrictors!

Tortoise

Goodbye Amazon!

Parintins, Brazil

Last night was the usual fare of trivia (very hard questions this time), a musical show and a room service dinner (just because we wanted to try it).

Doug went up to the upper decks to bug hunt again early this morning. Some new varieties on board today including some crickets which were singing. The camouflage pattern on some of the large moths is truly amazing (see pic – insect was about 5 inches long - the photo almost seems like it’s out of focus, but it  is not – what a great adaptation – keep your predators vision out of focus)! Apparently a bat was attracted to the bugs too and needed some help from a passenger to get air born for the return flight (wonder if he made it).

We dropped anchor in the Amazon at Parintins this morning at about 8 am and went to shore by tender. The poor tender driver was getting parking directions from several people on the dock, each telling him do go in a different direction.

Parintins is basically an island surrounded by three others. We watched daily activities in the life of the people living on the river island. Because there are no roads out of town, all along the harbour there were many boats of all sizes, each with a pretty precarious “ramp” to board. We watched men packing huge sacks of grain onto the boats and even two guys trying to load a big mattress. And of course the usual suitcase carriers heading to who knows where, hammocks swinging inside the boat as no place is provided to sit or lay down for longer voyages.

On our walk from the pier to the venue we passed the market where they were selling fresh veggies and fruit and a big selection of fish. Also lots of vendors with their touristy stuff. We had to do some shopping!

The municipality of Parintins (population 115,000) is famous within Brazil due to the folk festival which takes place in June each year depicting Boi-Bumbá a story about a bull that was resurrected. The dancers, in mardi-gras style, put on a rendition of this festival for us cruisers and it formed the basis of this morning’s excursion. It was colourful and exciting with many costume changes and hard driving, drum-laden music.

Tonight it is on to Manaus, the so-called “Paris of the South”.

Camo moth

Busy harbour

Market

Boi Bumba

Dancer

Exciting production

Colourful

Santarem, Brazil

 For dinner last evening we went to the specialty Italian restaurant and enjoyed an excellent meal. We then played trivia by ourselves (team members still all at dinner) Dinner was followed by a comedy-magic show put on by the cruise director. In our stateroom in the evening was a certificate testifying that we have crossed the Equator. We can put that with the one we got for crossing the Arctic Circle!

Located at the confluence of the Tapajós and Amazon Rivers, Santarém has an estimated population of 350,000. Because of the crystalline waters of the Tapajós River, Santarém has more than 100 km of natural beaches including one known as the "Caribbean in Brazil." thus has become a popular tourist destination.

Both rivers run along many kilometers in the front of the city, side by side, without mixing. Amazon's milky colored water carries sediment from the Andes in the East, while the Tapajós's water is somewhat warmer and has a deep-blue tone. This phenomenon is called "The meeting of the waters" by the locals.

We sailed alongside Santarem about 0630 this morning and Doug went to the top deck to bug hunt (see pics). As previously mentioned the various insects are attracted to the lights of the ship during the night.

This morning we were able to experience our first tendering situation as we are anchored in the middle of the river and needed to get to shore for our tour. They use the ships lifeboat vessels, spacious but also warm. These enclosed vessels hold about 100 people.

We had been warned about the tour buses being old and not to our standards but they were the most spacious we have had so far. No air conditioning, though. Our tour guide, Maria, did an excellent job. Her English was originally self-taught by watching subtitled movies but later took English in high school and university. She was a lawyer for a time but got tired of helping criminals get free so became a cop and does tours on the side. We realized how lucky we were with her for our guide when we were paired up with another group for a short while and you couldn’t understand anything their guide was saying.

Our tour started with a visit to a demonstration flour mill. They showed us how they traditionally prepare the cassava flour and offered us treats made from it as well as numerous different fruits including star fruit, pineapple, orange, banana and the stinky but very flavourful jack fruit as well as raw and roasted brazil nuts. They also demonstrated how rubber was extracted from the tree.

Other stops on the tour included a Cathedral and a museum. We also were taken to the meeting of the waters. All in all, a very informative tour but it was hot and humid.

Tonight we change back to Atlantic time (Brazil has 4 time zones) on our way to our next Amazon port - Parantins.

This morning's bug collection

Ship's tender

Making cassava flour

Selection of native fruits

Extracting rubber

Meeting of the waters

Local fisherman

Burial vessel with human remains

Cathedral

Cathedral ceiling

Cruising the Amazon

Yesterday evening we had dinner in the buffet (Chilean “Alaska” crab - yum), played trivia, as usual, and attended a performance by a Canadian female singer impersonator (important that the word “singer” is in there) from Sarnia, Ontario. She did a range of famous singers from Cher and Dolly Parton to the Four Seasons – excellent show.

Overnight we sailed to Macapa, the entrance city to the Amazon (“the capital of the middle of the world’) where we took 4 river pilots on board (they must be on duty 24 hours so need enough for shift work). Also we cleared immigration very quickly. We crossed the equator to get there and apparently will be provided with a certificate to prove it! It is such smooth sailing now. We are seeing more people out and about. And we can see land off both sides of the ship though we are told that may not be the case the further we go up this huge river.

While having breakfast we saw some dolphins feeding. We were able to spot them as birds brought our attention to the area by circling around before the dolphins popped up. We also noticed the first of what apparently will be many amazon bugs attracted to the ship. We are asked to keep our curtains closed at night to cut down on the bug attracting light. I think you’ve all heard the joke about the farmer’s wife had triplets. After the second one he said to the midwife “do you think it’s the lights that’s attracting them?”

After breakfast we attended a travelogue by the cruise director and figured out he was the same guy who was our director 10+ years ago when we were on our Mediterranean cruise with Oceania Cruises! Norma confirmed this with him. River boats

The waters are very brown. Not polluted per se but full of silt from all the upriver tributaries. We have been asked to conserve water as the water treatment plant they use to provide our water can’t work – filters get plugged. Good thing we did laundry a few days ago.

It is quite enjoyable to sit out on the veranda and watch the jungle go by. On the shore amongst the tress are houses on stilts. Most have power via gas generators but the only access is by riverboat. Apparently they are very dependent on their gardens and fishing. Having said that it is hot and humid but actually quite pleasant in the shade with the breeze from the ships movement. You just have to be sure to clean off the camera lenses and binocular eye pieces before use as they fog up quickly.

We have been surprised how many of our older generation are controlled by their cell phones. We had thought it was for the younger generation but as documented by the attached photo???

Just back from the talk on the upcoming ports. Some things to look forward to as we experience Brazil. We are due into our first Amazonian port: Santarem tomorrow morning. 

River pilot station

River pilots coming aboard

Amazon insects coming aboard

Riverboat docks

Amazon forest with house on the riverbank

"Mature" cellphone addicts

Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

Yesterday evening we had dinner at the Chef’s Table again. 5 courses of California cuisine with 5 wine pairings (interestingly none of the wines were Californian). Although the meals there are very good, it is not the place to go if you are famished. The appetizer was a dressed sweet potato chip. Yep, one chip about the size of a 50 cent piece in the center of a big plate. Norma amused herself by watching the reaction of other guests to this presentation. Wonderment, surprise, smiles, then laughter and finally one bite to devour and surprise again at how tasty it was, leaving you wanting a dozen more. 

In the evening we played trivia as usual, this time with a whole different team that invited us to join them. We did very well and were only one correct answer off from winning. After that we went to another musical performance (see pics).

We should mention at this point that the “moderate” seas of the Atlantic are not conducive to sound sleeping in spite of our comfortable “queen and a half” bed. At dinner last night on a lower deck we had a window table and the view was not too dissimilar to that through the window of a front loading washing machine. Luckily it got dark soon after we sat as you didn’t want to watch the huge swells and think about food.  Although we are getting a bit used to the constant motion it will be nice when it decreases in the Amazon River. As mentioned before, motion sickness is generally not a problem for us but we suspect that a few of the guests are suffering.

With having another day at sea we are taking in as many of the guest lectures as we can. They are all well done and these past few days has seen the theatre full with everyone having a similar idea. Today, after an afternoon trivia session we went to the naturalist’s talk on the Amazon. Currently we are slowly proceeding toward the mouth of the river and the water has taken on a very brown colour. About 20% of all the water from all the rivers worldwide that dump into the oceans comes from the Amazon. It is the start of the rainy season now so that explains where all the water comes from – high humidity out there – it’s like a sauna. We are due to pick up our river pilots tomorrow morning before we enter the Amazon proper. By the way, the ride has smoothed markedly.

Norma is taking in another movie in the theatre today.

Ship's vocalists

Amazon muddy water out to sea

Our present position

Isle Royale, French Guiana

Yesterday evening we had  dinner in the buffet restaurant then played trivia. We were short two players again. Later we attended a musical concert featuring an excellent musician who played multiple instruments including a "headless" guitar which he said that was all he could afford.

In the morning we attended the naturalist’s lecture on porpoises and whales of the Caribbean and the Amazon. Perhaps we will see some pink dolphins when we get to the Amazon.

We arrived at Isle Royale at about 12:30 only to find a freighter in our way. What was worse was the “moderate” seas refused to subside which resulted in the cancellation of our trip to the island. There is no docking for our cruise ship on the island so the tenders (small boats) used to transfer us could not safely operate. We are disappointed but understand.

One of the most notorious of French Guiana’s prison colonies was located on the Islands of Salvation, three small islands, now serving as nature reserves and day-trip holiday destinations for the French Guianese. During prison times, they were collectively called Devil’s Islands, a name that remains with the smallest of the three. We were to visit the largest of these, Ile Royale, to tour the prison remains and attempt to understand what life was like for the prisoners.

 

Instead, in the afternoon Norma went to the theatre to see the murder mystery movie: “Death on the Nile”. Doug was going to go because he thought they announced the title as “Death of the Nile” and was expecting a biologically oriented documentary. Norma laughed at him. Well not really laughed. Just rolled her eyes and chuckled. 

 

By the way, the sea is featuring some darker streaks in the water as we sail along the northeast coast of South America toward the Amazon – we have entered the so-called Orinoco-Amazon plume which refers to the silt-laden river water spreading along the coast. As the nutrients increase we should see more wildlife –sea birds, etc.

Isle Royal and the Freighter

Isle Royale

Model of the Viking Sea

Atrium and grand piano

Our stateroom

Cruising the Caribbean Sea

After we left Barbados yesterday the sea became, well, the open ocean and the rougher ride started. Keep in mind that the Viking Sea is a relatively small cruise liner (900 passengers) which is what is needed to navigate the Amazon River. We pay for that with a bouncy ride getting there. Neither one of us is particularly prone to motion sickness but it is not as pleasant a trip. Navigating the hallways can be challenging in particular as not all have grab rails. The captain says we have 6-8 foot swells and calls it “a nice day on the Atlantic”.

While in port yesterday Doug bought Norma a new Pandora charm depicting flags of Barbados (see picture) for her travel bracelet. We then dressed up for dinner in one of the specialty restaurants: Manfredo’s Italian. Very nice meal. In the evening we played trivia as usual. Still have not won but we were shorthanded once again.

This morning Doug had a chat with the ship’s naturalist as he does “office hours” on an observation deck with his binoculars and camera. While he chatted Norma got in some steps briskly walking around on the walking track trying not to fall over with the swell.

The shower experience in these swells is interesting. You have to wait to open the door as the swells take the shower water to the drain, to the door and back again until it is empty.

Also this morning we attended a presentation by the head chef (Filipino) and the pastry chef (German). They incorporated a bit of a comedy routine into their cooking demonstration which made it fun for everyone.

As promised we include more pictures of the ship to give you a better flavour of the facilities.

Tomorrow we stop at Isle Royale and tour part of the famous Devil’s Island French prison. Have you seen the movie “Papillon”?

Charm with Barbados flag on flip-flops

Hold on!

Chef's demo

On board shopping

More on board shopping

Viking history display on board

Wines selection