Weipa, QLD - 513 km

Started our morning with a nice chat with a New South Wales, Australia, couple who were camped beside us. They too are making their way up to Cape York so we may run into them again during our travels. Again this morning Norma woke up with curly hair. Isn’t this humidity wonderful!

Not too far out of Laura we stopped at a termite tombstone display (see photo).

Termite tombstones

In all our research and readings at home we had been given the impression the roads were going to be very rough and require extra travel time. At the start out of Laura this morning we thought this was going to be true as we encountered very deep loose gravel making for pretty slow going. Oh, well, we had decided it is what it is, but low and behold after a few kms the road smoothed out and we didn’t see any more of that. We did experience washboard (corrugations as they call them here) , deep soft red dirt, hard pack, dust holes, dust clouds from passing vehicles, crests and dips (some of which went through creek beds with water and some dry) and some bitumen (Australian for pavement) sections. These weren’t too long and usually in front of homesteads, roadhouses and where it looked like the road would wash away in the wet season. After all Doug did drive 516 km today on these supposedly challenging roads. He tells me he is fine and not even too tired!!!

The road is covered in the very fine red dust which as you can imagine gets into everything. The outside of the camper is pretty dirty and we are glad the door fits fairly snugly but having said that we are still finding the red dust on things in the cupboards and on the counter, etc. Anything we have in the outside storage compartments is solid red!

Red dust everywhere!

There is quite a bit of road kill and after seeing many dead kangaroos, wild pigs and even a cow we were losing hope of seeing anything alive but there came a kangaroo hopping across the road in front of us. We saw a few more as well as a dingo (wild dog) and lots of free range cows as we were travelling past “stations” – Australian for outback ranch.

We had initially thought we would stop in Coen for the night but were already there just after lunch so decided to press on. Our lunch stop was beside the Coen creek, a very pleasant cool stop in the shade. It got up to 32 degrees again today.

We also stopped at two roadhouses, Musgrave and Archer River, where we got a fuel top up of diesel for $2.25 a litre! Everything has to be transported in to this isolated area so the closer we get to Cape York the higher the prices seem to be. Another example – a Gatorade for $6.50.

We arrived in Weipa in time for a short walk before dinner and dark. It gets dark by 6:30 so we find we need to plan well or Doug would be cooking with artificial light attracting the bugs. Our cook stove is an exterior pullout.

Norma's trawler prawns

Weipa is a bauxite mining town. They ship this aluminum ore to smelters from the harbour here. There are several areas where you can see the haul roads for the ore trucks and even an ore truck crossing controlled by a “train” stop light. The other main industry is fishing and apparently is very popular with the sports fishermen. We did see many vehicles pulling boats, a bit dodgy on these road conditions I would think.

After our wonderful shrimp dinner (from the trawler at Cooktown) we walked over to the shore (our campground is right on the ocean – Gulf of Carpenteria) and watched the sun set. It is a bit cloudy but it was very pretty with the sun being veiled by the clouds. Attached is Doug’s camera’s artistic rendition.

Weipa sunset

 

Laura, QLD 186 km

We are getting used to the idiosyncrasies of the vehicle and are finding it pretty comfortable to drive/ride and sleep in. The air conditioner (yes, it is air conditioned – we are wimps, I know) has been vital and we are going to miss it once we get further north where we are sure we won’t be finding as many powered sites.

After a leisurely morning we headed into Cooktown, did some laundry and shopped for a few more “luxury” items like a face cloth, floor mat and travel mug. We found some of these items in a bargain store where they wanted $160 for a mediocre quilt! We are really finding things very expensive and do realize this may be partially due to the fact we are further north, but that was also the case in Cairns. A little example is a case of 24 coke regular price is $27. Oh, well. We are on vacation and will just have what we want.

The laundromat was situated on the wharf and behold there was a fishing vessel called the Guiding Star in port selling fresh caught prawns. We just couldn’t resist – or should I say Norma couldn’t resist so we bought half a kilo after doing some negotiating with the captain. They are huge and will be tomorrow’s dinner. Can’t hardly wait! There was a lady fishing on the wharf as well. She had pulled in two nice size fish and was pretty excited with her catch. Bet that is supper tonight unless she is selling to the tourists.

The owner of the campground last evening told us we needed to go to the “lookout” so up we went and it was truly a great view. You could see in all directions.

Cooktown Lookout

By the time we did all this and went to the bank and fueled up it was almost 11 am. We decided to use the Battle Camp Road to Laura versus going back on the highway. After all, we do have the 4 X 4 so want to use it. There were several rivers to cross again today. This is starting to be old hat to us now. Our lunch stop was at one of these crossings where Isabella Falls come down right from the edge of the “road”. It was very pretty but could be treacherous too if the water was much higher.

 

Isabella Falls

We also saw lots of termite mounds looking like head stones in a grave yard. Some of them were right on the road! We figure they must build them really fast to have them pop up on the road.

As we got closer to Laura we came across Old Laura Station, which used to be a cattle station. They are trying to preserve it but time and weather are doing their part to destroy it.

Old Laura Station

Our aim today was to check into the Laura Aboriginal Dance Festival and camp on the fairgrounds for the next few days. They did offer seniors rates but would not give it to us without some special Aussie pensioners pass so we decided it was not worth it to camp in a field, using pretty rustic porta-potties and spending $300 for the privilege! Down the road we went and are at a powered site (nice with the temperature being 34) in Laura.

Cooktown, QLD - 174 km

Our first night in our campervan went well, except for both of us being awake at 4 a.m. to the sound of rain and debris falling on the roof. When we got up the rain had pretty well stopped but it was pretty socked in. Luckily this passed and turned out to be a glorious day with temperatures reaching 27 degrees. We are finally starting to feel turned around from the time change and jet lag.

We went into Mossman this morning to try and find internet and pick up a few things and surprise, surprise, there was free internet at Woolworths (a grocery store here) so we were able to sit in the camper and add the previous blog entry.

The morning's trip north was over very winding paved roads and across the Daintree Ferry ($13.50 to cross one way - a five minute trip).

Because of the rain we weren’t sure we would be able to travel the Bloomfield Track, the 4 X 4 drive from Cape Tribulation to Cooktown, but after stopping at Mason’s Store in Cape Tribulation we were assured that people had been making it through although it was a bit muddy in a few places. As soon as we got on the track we saw a demolished car – not a good sign.

Not a good start for someone. . .

But it was a great adventure and reminded us of our 4 X 4 drives to pick berries, except that it was through the spectacular rain forest. We traversed several rivers and climbed some very steep pitches.  They warn you not to walk across some of the rivers to test the depth before crossing because you could end up as a croc meal. We stopped for a picnic lunch beside the Emmagen Creek and watched several other vehicles, including a small 4 X 4 car pass through. We weren’t too worried with our vehicle as we have an intake snorkel but the little car didn’t and the water was up and well over the tires! Hope they didn’t have issues later on. One other area was all bedrock and pretty dodgy but we made it through.

 

 

In an effort to keep this road passable they have recently paved the steep hills and build a few one lane bridges. As you can see from the picture the water level still can rise above the bridge so water level gauges are present so people can decide if they want to attempt the crossing or not. The major crossing at the Bloomfield River has a brand new bridge. Check the photo for the old and the new way to cross!

Old and new river crossing.

Today in some places we were travelling through a tunnel of green, with the foliage and vines hanging down to the road. At our lunch stop Doug was attacked by this nasty spiny plant that seemed to be growing everywhere along the way. And we think our Devil's club is bad! We saw many signs warning to watch for the cassowaries (a very large flightless bird) and did manage to see (but not photograph) one in the bush.

Ouch!

At the start of the drive we paralleled the ocean and saw people enjoying the white sandy beaches. We were surprised at the amount of traffic and how busy the camp grounds are but realize this is the only time of year people can travel up this way and many Australians from the south make their way here for their holidays as the temperatures are more pleasant and it is getting cold down south. All in all an enjoyable day.

We have found ourselves in Cooktown for the night and this time with internet in our camper (purchased for $2 donation to the Flying Doctors).

Mossman, QLD 88 km

After an early night (although we sat out on our little veranda at the hotel and ate pizza to try and stay awake we finally succumbed) and had fairly decent sleep. Today we are starting to feel turned around from the jet lag.

We picked up our 4X4 campervan this morning at 10 am. We were given an emergency locator (see photo) to activate if we find ourselves in the middle of nowhere with a severe problem. It is apparently Australian law that people have this device heading up to Cape York and other 4 X 4 areas. If we pull the switch the helicopter will come to our rescue.

 

We then headed to the nearest mall to stock up on groceries, etc.  It must have been a very upscale mall because they sell gold/diamond encrusted diapers (see attached photo).

 



 

Our shakedown cruise from Cairns to Mossman today was through sugar cane fields and some very curvy coastal roads with beautiful white sand beaches. We even saw some tandem hang gliders getting ready to leap off the rocks over the ocean. Watching for cane trains (they have very narrow gauge rail cars to haul the cane out of the fields) and kangaroos (the only ones we saw were on our dinner plates tonight – roo burgers!) we first made our way to touristy Port Douglas where they wanted way too much for a cramped campsite, units sitting cheek to jowl with NO room between. We settled in Mossman for the night, nestled in the rainforest next to a river (see photos). The tree beside the camper even has some bromeliads (air plants) on its trunk. Yes it did rain – apparently they are having a very wet start to their dry season.

 

 

We think we have things sorted out in the camper. There is quite a bit of storage space but it is all down low. We now have another shopping list of items we know we will need/use in the next four weeks. We were surprised there wasn’t even a book of matches to light the stove but the young girl in reception helped us out.

Tomorrow should be an interesting day as we are going to attempt the vaunted Bloomfield Track from Cape Tribulation to Cooktown. 4X4 only because of the river crossings and steepness. It may not be open because of the wet weather they have been having – we shall see.

Cairns, QLD

Anyone have any suggestions on how to move Australia closer to North America? After a total of almost 20 hours of flying from Calgary we landed in Cairns about 12:30 pm today (Monday), losing Sunday in the process. The Calgary-LA leg was smooth, whereas the LA-Brisbane and Brisbane-Cairns legs had some bumps. We were hit by the humidity as soon as we got off the plane! We both managed to sleep a little so our aim now is to stay awake until it is bedtime in Australia. Oh, well, only 5 more hours to go!

We checked into our hotel and went for a walk to try to buy a portable BBQ for the campervan we are picking up tomorrow. The 1 hour walk (successful by the way as we got a portable grill top for the propane stove) in the tropical QLD humidity has us soaking wet! Cairns is also not that walker friendly as there are few continuous sidewalks. It appears that people only put in a sidewalk in front of their own property so if their neighbours choose not to participate the sidewalk ends. Also many puddles and muddy areas - in the supposed dry season (it was bucketing in Brisbane when we landed, too).

Swimming pool at the hotel.

Nelson, B.C.

Our next adventure will unfortunately not include Whiskey Jack (watch for blog entries later this summer). However we will soon fly to Australia  to spend approximately 4 weeks in the State of Queensland. This will include a 4X4 tour of the Cape York peninsula, a day at the Aboriginal Dance Festival and a visit to the Great Barrier Reef.

After Doug spending 1998 working in Australia and our visit in 2005 we vowed to return to this fascinating country. Wish us luck and if you  are so inclined use this blog to follow along. Keep in mind that we will be visiting some remote areas so regular internet access could be problematical.

“Australia is mostly empty and a long way away. Its population is small and its role in the world consequently peripheral. It doesn't have coups, recklessly overfish, arm disagreeable despots, grow coca in provocative quantities, or throw its weight around in a brash and unseemly manner. It is stable and peaceful and good. It doesn't need watching, and so we don't. But I will tell you this: the loss is entirely ours.” ― Bill Bryson, In a Sunburned Country

Nelson, B.C.

As he approaches 160,000 km of faithful service we wish to formally announce Raindancer's retirement from active service. He has his own spot in the storage shed and will willingly donate any parts which can be of use. Our new touring mount, a grey '07 BMW LT has officially been named "Whiskey Jack" after the grey (Canada) jay. With not even 15,000 km on his odometer we look forward to many trouble free trips in the future.