Nelson, BC 552 km

Nice, albeit a bit cool (BUT we are not complaining), ride from Missoula up the Clark Fork Valley into Idaho. Then the RAIN started and did not let up. It is nice to be home with everything looking lush (could be the RAIN) including the weeds in the garden. About the only downsides to our NM ride was the concert and the extra toasty weather. Many upsides including some new motorcycling roads as destinations for future trips.

Here is an interesting item: we spent a total of 11 consecutive days in motel/hotels. In each room we rented there was, of course, a flat screen TV.

NOT ONCE DID WE TURN ANY OF THEM ON!

All rooms had wireless internet connection and we carried an ipad and a laptop which provided all the entertainment and info we needed. I wonder what that says about television as an industry or perhaps about us. . .

Missoula, MT 585 km

We left Pocatello at around 7:30 and had almost 400 km done by the time we had lunch in Wisdom, MT. The first several hours were spent on I15 - our vote for the most enjoyable superslab around. Nice scenery, very little traffic. In MT the freeway speed limit is 15 mph lower for trucks (65 mph) which allows one to stay ahead of them and/or deal with them easily.

Have you ever been in a road race with antelope? We did today and can they ever run. We spotted the two of them, startled them then they ran along beside us trying to decide if they were going to cross in front of us, getting faster and faster as we got slower and slower. We finally got past them without incident.
Yesterday and again today we noticed miles of snow fence beside the road. Another indication of what kind of winters the farmers need to contend with.

At lunch in Wisdom we found a country Montana Christmas wreath on display. None of them sissy grapevines to hang your greenery on - they use barbed wire!

Barbed wire Christmas wreath

Not too far out of Wisdom is the Big Hole Battle Site memorial. If you are unfamiliar with the history of the Nez Perce tribe it is worth doing some reading. It is hard to believe how the native North Americans were dealt with by the European settlers. A different era.

We also  stopped at Darby, MT where we poked around an antique store for a few minutes. Lots of metal artwork outside the shop as well as a amazing Clermont antique wood stove for sale. No price was on it but the lesser one next to it was 7 grand. The clerk in the store indicated that if we were to purchase the bigger one she could happily go home for the day!

Stage coach sculpture - not too comfortable

Antique wood stove



Looks like we will be back in Nelson tomorrow afternoon sometime. As it turned out our trip has been cut a couple of days short due to the reroute to avoid the SW heat wave. Oh well, lots of chores to do at home in the coming week. Whiskey Jack needs a break, too.

Pocatello, ID 520 km

A little more pleasant riding temps today as it only climbed above 30C during the last hour. We found another great motorcycling road: the Flaming Gorge-Uintas Scenic Byway in Northern Utah.

More  great motorcycling roads

It starts from Vernal on  Hwy 191 and winds over the 8000+ ft Daggett Summit after passing the Simplot phosphate mine. The mine owners have done a great job and are committed to continue restoring the mine site as they move down the mountain. You can see a green re-vegetated area to the right.

Phosphate mine

The road then proceeds as Hwy 44 down into the Flaming Gorge. Very scenic! And on into Wyoming. Lots of antelope in the farmers fields. Evidence of haying also.

Flaming Gorge - see the highway below?

Some of the areas in Wyoming reminded us of Drumheller, AB. Same sort of fossil-rich sedimentary rock everywhere. Incidentally there are signs on some of the highways today and yesterday stating that there is no snow removal from 7pm to 5am. At least they are honest.

Drumheller-like terrain

When lunch time rolled around we found ourselves in Cokeville. Riding down main street all businesses were boarded up - the grocery store, bar, etc. yet there was a large school and fire hall so we got the impression it should have been a center for the massive farming area surrounding it. We ended up lunching at a Flying J gas station that had a deli and a defunct restaurant that they let us sit in to eat! Several other people were doing the same thing after seeing us.

By the way, after Cokeville we passed the largest open pit coal mine in the US at Elkol, Wyoming.

Vernal, UT 524 km

We have had enough hot weather. We could almost taste the ice cold drinks waiting when about 15 minutes from our final destination today we met a paving crew. Whiskey Jack was telling us it was 33C. Waiting for a pilot car in full motorcycle regalia at that temperature is not pleasant. This just reminds us why we headed south earlier in the year for our past motorcycle trips.

But this was only the ending of a very nice ride today. CO Hwy 141 follows the Delores River and it has all the elements of an excellent motorcycle road, scenery, curves, little traffic, etc. So for a big part of the morning we were surrounded by rocky canyon walls and water.

CO Hwy 141

Great road!

After bypassing  the Grand Junction urban area we stopped in Loma, CO. Loma is a cattle town. We were looking for somewhere to eat but saw nothing. After an inquiry at a gas station we were told that there is a restaurant in the stockyards. OK. We went to the stockyards and by a process of dead reckoning (a few tables outside and pickups parked in front) we found an unmarked section of the cow complex and went in, thinking "this should be good". And it was! Doug had a sandwich with "home made corned beef" and it was the best he had ever tasted. The restaurant was very busy with obviously locals (remember the building was unmarked). We suspect it is only open as a restaurant in the summer as its main purpose is to cater to cowboy events.

Stockyards Restaurant

We then rode CO Hwy 139 over Douglas Pass (8000+ ft). Parts of it was quite spectacular, very winding but the pavement was in poor condition making the ride less enjoyable. We stopped just over the pass for a break at a long abandoned cattle farm. The grass was green and lush, perfect for a few head of cattle, but I'll bet the winters are nasty up there.

We passed through several small towns including one called Gateway. There were two little boys walking from the river holding their fishing poles. The one had a very nice big fish and was about to trip over his smile, he was so proud of himself. The water looked very muddy so we were surprised he was able to catch anything.

We will most likely make an early start again tomorrow to try to beat the heat.

Dove Creek, CO 464 km

The temperatures ranges from 15C to 33C today as the weather continues very warm. Yesterday there were some t-storms in the Taos area along with very gusty winds all of which happened after we stopped riding for the day.

As we left Taos this morning we came to a subdivision of solar powered earth houses. Taos county is very much a cool weather, snowy, mountainous area.

Solar powered earth house

Not too long after Taos we crossed the Rio Grande which has carved out quite a canyon.

Rio Grande canyon

Todays ride involved a 10000+ foot pass in NM. The trees had not yet leafed out and there was snow in the shadows. While stopped at the lookout we met a BMW rider from New York who is in the process of doing exactly what we are doing, avoiding the mid 40s temperatures in California and Arizona (it is 108F in Phoenix as we write this). 

10000 ft lookout

Lots of bikes out enjoying this great riding area. Colorado seems more touristy with several smaller ski areas and signs indicating both winter and summer sports to enjoy. Lots of llamas and alpacas so we need to do some research and see if that is what the modern Navajo use to weave those beautiful blankets. It just seems there are too many to just be pets. Also saw two huge dead pigs on the side of the road so wonder if they have a wild pig/boar problem here.

 

Tonight we find ourselves in a bean farming area of Colorado and will head north through eastern CO into N. Utah. People here mustn't see men in shorts very often. This comment comes after a fellow commented on Doug's white legs as we were out walking.

 



 

Taos, NM 434 km

OK. Last night in Ruidoso at the Inn of the Mountain Gods (read Apache Casino) we attended an Oakridge Boys concert. For about 35 minutes. Now I am not certain who was at fault here but the drums and base literally drowned out the singing. Basically it was just noise. We left our front area seats and walked to the back where it was marginally better, but still unacceptable. We were not the only ones leaving. We would have thought that a band with the Oakridge Boys decades of experience would have this sorted out by now. So that was that - very disappointing as we had gone to hear "the boys" sing, not the band drown them out. Would like to see if they have a website where we can make them more aware of what their audience thinks!

As mentioned previously we are in the process of modifying our travel route due to a heat wave in the southwest. We headed directly north of Ruidoso into the mountains of northern NM. We even managed to get a little wet today as this area in famous for it's afternoon t-storms.

A substantial number of the small towns are kind of "boarded up" - relics from a bygone era.

Defunct old towns along the way

The most interesting part of the ride was HWY 518 leading to Taos. It traverses a 9000ft+ pass leading from the cactus/sage desert floor to a coniferous/deciduous area looking very much like parts of home in April (high creeks, trees freshly leafed out, etc.). Lots of old cabins near the ski area, which are bragging about being open for both winter and summer sports. It was 22.5C at the top - a nice change from 30C. We passed many bicyclists trudging up the pass. On their backs it read "560 miles, 35,000ft climbing". We like our mode of transportation better.

Spring in the mountains

 

NM needs a beverage deposit law

Ruidoso, NM 353 km

Another warm desert ride today (24.5C in morning to 30.5C in midday) but up here in the mountains it is a bit cooler (27C). We noticed a real change in the vegetation from the dry desert into lush green, with more grass for the cattle, fruit trees and a vineyard. Even saw a road runner high tail it through the fence and into the field. The last hour or so of the trip was very scenic with a great selection of desert plants blooming. We stopped a couple of times just to appreciate the flowers. The black rock is an old lava flow.

Prickly pear blossom

Yucca flower spike

Cholla in flower



We are always amazed at how friendly the NM people are. Most oncoming drivers will wave as they
pass. Yesterday at a reservation gas station there was this older native gentleman in a battered pick-up that seemed to be watching us. He then drove over just to chat and find out all about us.

Coming into Ruidoso there was evidence of a past forest fire on both sides of the road that must have been scary so close to habitation. This is a very touristy area due to the fairly popular ski hill. There are lots of newer condo complexes and well maintained roads.

Tonight we are going to see the Oakridge Boys in concert at the local casino. The venue is virtually sold out. Looks like we will ride over to the casino as it is a bit out of town. You never know. We may even try our hand at the machines. An update to follow in tomorrow's blog as I am sure we will have lots to tell about our evenings entertainment.

In looking at the weather forecast for the upcoming days we see a predicted heat wave of 100 degree plus to the west (California and Arizona). For example it is 115F in Lake Havasu City this afternoon. None of us, including Whisky Jack, handle that kind of heat well! We have pared down to the minimum amount of safe riding gear already.  So we are giving considerable thought to just heading north from here to stay in the cool NM mountains.

Sky City, NM. 474 km

Another beautiful sunny ride. We were in 3 states today: UT, AZ and NM. Interesting sandstone formation scenery leading into juniper-pinyon pine forest.

View over Doug's shoulder

We spent part of the time on HWY 191 through the Navajo reservation.  Encountered beggars at each stop - hanging around restaurants and gas stations. You could smell the alcohol breath from great distance and even with helmets still on! It was pretty depressing seeing how desolate the farms were with mostly old single wide trailers, no trees and sparse grass for the cows. Going around one corner on the highway we came across a herd of beautiful horses with 6 colts that were on the wrong side of the fence. Tried to decide if they were wild or just escapees! We did stop at a native trading post and looked around but did not buy anything. One beautiful Navajo blanket was selling for $2700. At one small town of I40 we encountered a neat schoolyard complete with treehouse and slide leading off it.

Here is another shot of the metal art we saw yesterday.

Another warm day of riding: 22C to 32.5C.

Tomorrow we will be in Ruidoso for the Oak Ridge Boys concert.

Blanding, UT 384 km

Today was Arches National Park day, as it was for thousands of other visitors. The park is known worldwide as one of the most scenic spots on the planet. Consequently it is very busy. We arrived at the park around 10 am and waited in line for about 15 minutes to pay our $15 entrance fee. After a short visit to the visitor center we then rode the length of the park road (about 25 miles) to the Devil's Garden picnic site where we (you guessed it) had a Subway sandwich (purchased earlier) picnic.



Picnic

By this time the temp was approaching 30C. We then retraced our path and stopped at some of the photo-op spots along the way. The challenge for the day was finding a place to park but luckily the bike doesn't take up much room so we were able to tuck it into small spaces. Cars and motorhomes faced other challenges and often created traffic jams on some of the one way roads.

Delicate Arch

 

Balancing Rock

After leaving the park we stopped at the Hole in the Rock, a famous bar/restaurant now converted into a tourist stop. After enlarging the photos by clicking on them check them out carefully. Do you see the jeep on the mountain? The other jeep is a metal sculpture.

 



 

Tonight we are in Blanding, UT and it is gusty and hot!

Price, UT 585km

Today's ride started out cool (10C) but ended very warm (29C). We followed Interstate 15 from Idaho Falls, ID to Ogden, UT. We then decided that I15 through Salt Lake City was not what we wanted (having done that before and the only time Norma was nervous with four lanes of traffic, semis on both sides, front and back and going 80 miles an hour - yes, 80MPH!) so we rode east into the mountains and looped around the megopolis. Much nicer route, albeit a half hour (approx.) longer. We had several nice breaks along the way, one at a state park (reservoir) and another featuring a tribute to the original railroad line traversing Soldier Summit.

Deer Lake State Park (UT)

 

Skookum Cow Catcher

Almost forgot to tell about a most unsettling happening yesterday. Doug was taking some pictures of the surroundings when a strange object appeared in the camera lens. Obviously some wild-haired madman was skulking around the bike while we were stopped. Managed to catch a photo, though - see what you think.