Thursday May 1st, 2014 Palmiet Caravan Park, Kleinmond, Western Cape, SA – 304 km
Last evening we watched our Muslim
camper neighbours taking part in their evening prayers. The entire family was
lined up on their knees facing east, men in front, and boys in the next row then
the females, bowing and chanting. There were two little white boys sitting
“Indian style” on the road watching the production (they had all previously
been playing together). Would have loved to get a picture but didn’t want to
intrude on their religious practice.
Another sunny morning started our
day with a visit to the Stoney Point Penguin Sanctuary near Betty’s Bay about
10 minutes away. This is another great example of how the SA people are making
conservation efforts that are really working. We were told the population of
this colony had been declining rapidly until they started protecting them and
the numbers have risen from 2,000 to 6,000 in the past four years. There are
only two nesting places on the mainland (most nest on offshore islands) and
this is one of them. The sanctuary is set up so you can walk along a boardwalk
with the penguin nesting places on one side and many ways for them to get to
the ocean under the board walk. The various nesting places are numbered so they
can keep track of the reproduction. The boardwalk is closed at 5 pm so the penguins
have no issue returning to the nests (they frighten easily) to feed their young
after a day of “fishing”. These African penguins used to be called “jackass
penguins” due to the braying sound they make – and they are very loud and
vocal. We did see a few molting, which doesn’t usually happen at this time of
year. The park interpreter told us they were just a bit late!
When we first got there one penguin came out, saw us and ran back into the bush, we thought to hide but he went to get his buddies. Out he came a few seconds later followed by half a dozen more, who proceeded to walk along beside us. We watched them preening and cleaning each other, digging new nests in the sand, carrying sticks, jumping into the sea, sunbathing and doing a variety of other cute penguin things. We must say we were pretty glad we were upwind though as it was occasionally a bit odorous.
When we first got there one penguin came out, saw us and ran back into the bush, we thought to hide but he went to get his buddies. Out he came a few seconds later followed by half a dozen more, who proceeded to walk along beside us. We watched them preening and cleaning each other, digging new nests in the sand, carrying sticks, jumping into the sea, sunbathing and doing a variety of other cute penguin things. We must say we were pretty glad we were upwind though as it was occasionally a bit odorous.
We continued our drive along the
east shore of False Bay, a very narrow winding road but also pretty drive. They
did caution against the possibility of rock slides. The crazy part was all the
bicyclists we kept seeing. There is NO shoulder to the road and NO place for
them to pull out or the vehicles to get over to pass them so it is like they
have a secret death wish. I think it would be a lovely ride if they didn’t have
to spend the entire time watching their backs. We also saw lots of motorcycles
enjoying the curves. It would be a great M/C road.
Our next destination was Cape
Point and the Cape of Good Hope. We found a side road so we were able to get
off the freeway but soon discovered this went through some townships (see picture
of Khayelitsha) then proceeded along Baden Powell drive, a sandy corridor of
highway right through the beach, into a very touristy area around Fish Hoek,
Kalkbaai and Simon’s Town. We had planned to stop a purchase some fresh fish
for dinner but the traffic and lack of parking space for a motorhome put an end
to that idea. We were slowed down a bit getting through this area this morning but
nothing like the people trying to go that way later when we were heading back,
around 1:30 pm. There must have been over 2 km of cars bumper to bumper barely
moving. Sure glad we went when we did. We have since learned today is a holiday
so no schools in and lots of people out and about.
A Township Near Cape Town |
The drive to Table Mountain
National Park was very impressive. Again we were able to use our Wild card and
avoid paying the $20 per person entrance/conservation fee. The climb up the mountain
is very steep until you reach the very flat “table” across the top. You can see
the Indian Ocean on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. We were both
pretty excited to make it to Cape of Good Hope as it is one of those places you
hear about in school as a child and never think you will actually be seeing. We
sat watching the seals and the waves while enjoying our lunch before starting
to make our way back. Also in the park we saw hyrax, ostrich, baboons and
antelope. They apparently have “stocked” this area with antelope and zebra.
There are lots of warnings about illegal feeding of the baboons and how vicious
they can be. They advise you to be sure your windows are closed.
Cape of Good Hope |
Tomorrow is our mushroom course
so we took a different route back, completing a bit of a circle drive as we wanted
to locate that destination and how long it will take in the morning. The road
took us up a very steep windy road into the Sir Lowry Pass and down again. We
have managed to avoid Cape Town. Some people may think we are missing a lot but
you who know us know we don’t do cities well so this has been our plan all
along.
There was a wonderful red sunset
tonight – a perfect ending to a glorious day!
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