Worley, ID 638 km

Update on the Brewery Follies as promised. The event takes place in the basement of the old Brewery and the cast of five cover the door, serve drinks and perform. It was a bit raunchy at times but they had forewarned everyone. The musician was excellent and their take on some of the older songs was good.

Left the ghost town at around 9 after a very nice breakfast - egg pizza which we are going to try to make at home. Couple that ran the B&B were very nice. No ghost but the following picture sums up the place.

A beautiful day for a ride. Spent a lot of time following Montana's Clark Fork river (trout stream extraordinaire - but no fishermen, it must still be closed).

Stopped at Philipsburg, MT for lunch - another historic site-town. A lady on the street recommended the BBQ joint so we dug in and had BBQ sauce everywhere - yum. Norma thinks they could save a bit of money by cutting back on the too generous amount of sauce on the ribs. At least they provided paper towel by the roll and those wet wipe things.

Walked around the main street of the town  bit. There was one shop that had sapphire "panning". For 25 bucks they get you a bag of dirt, provide instructions and away ya go! Also there was this candy store. . .

Well, it was a designated guilt free zone - what would you do? We came away with some chocolate huckleberry caramels and other things which we will sample later.

Here we are at the Coeur d' Alene casino again so will try our luck after a bit of dinner. Heading home tomorrow. This will be the last post for this trip.

Nevada City, MT - 440 km

We rode through a good part of central Montana (including Bozeman, Bruce - we were here a few years ago to hear Bruce present his Montana State University Masters project) today. The morning was great but the wind once again picked up in the afternoon. We passed by the Madison River on the way. Full of fishermen and tubing aficionados. Lots of spots to camp and it being a Sunday people were definitely taking advantage of the day. The river being high with all the runoff is running pretty fast so it was interesting watching the fishing boats trying to keep off the rocks and not run too fast. Most boats had an oarsman holding the craft while his buddies tried to cast (in the wind) and hopefully land the line where they were aiming. Didn't see anyone pull any fish in!

If you check a Montana map you will see Nevada City listed as what it is: a ghost town. And we (and the ghosts presumably) are here for the night at a B&B.

Upon arrival we took some time to tour the town (which is a museum in itself). It has the most amazing collection of mechanical musical devices from player organs, calliopes and the like to a violin machine! Most are in playable condition (bring your quarters!) so we tried them out.

Violin playing machine

The town is interesting with many  buildings housing authentic accoutrements of all descriptions. Volunteers in period costumes make the scene more real on the weekends. Unfortunately the old steam train was off for repairs so we couldn't take a ride. Norma was even shown how to spin wool. The lady worked the spinning wheel pedal and provided guidance on holding the raw wool. Even gave us a sample of what was spun.

We are going back a few K's to Virginia City tonight to attend the "follies" and will report tomorrow.

Hardin, MT 491 km

Yesterday we had a very enjoyable ride through the Black Hills. It is obviously a very popular recreational area with many campgrounds, etc. Lots of different activities like hiking, fishing, ATVing and horse back riding. It also has great motorcycle roads.

Today we were in three states (SD, WY and MT) and at one point thought we may be blown into a 4th. The US Weather Service warned of 40 mph gusts and they were at least that - very scary crosswinds at one point. However we persevered and managed to stay upright to visit Devil's Tower. Originally thought to be an eroded volcano it is a now though to be a laccolith - guess I taught that one wrong. . . Regardless it is a neat mountain that you can see for miles.

We then re-attacked the wind gusts and eventually arrived at Little Bighorn Battlefield (Custer's last stand). Norma made the mistake of saying between wind gust attacks: "at least it isn't raining too" when a light drizzle began. Luckily it only lasted a few minutes but she knows better to invite the curse!

We sat through a ranger talk on the events of the battle then walked around the site seeing the markers where soldiers and Indians had fallen. Besides the monument honouring the soldiers they recently have added a monument to honour the Native American people who lost their lives.

Native American Monument

Tonight we find ourselves in Hardin, MT where about half of the population is Native American.

Sturgis, SD 473 km

Once again we spent a part of another very sunny morning at a Wyoming historical site: Fort Laramie. This fort played an important role in the development of the western USA. Over time it was everything from a fur trader post, pony express station to an army garrison quarters involved in the so-called "Indian Wars". Some of you may remember the TV show "Laramie" - old ones like us. We watched a movie on the history of the site and then did a self guided walking tour.

We met a soldier doing some baking. The bakery has to produce enough bread to provide each soldier with a large loaf per day, which meant they usually made as many as 700 loaves a day. The soldiers had to take turns being the "baker" if they knew how or not and as many of them were illiterate it proved interesting as they put the ingredients together.

The fort is in the process of being restored with several of the buildings completed including the cavalry quarters. They also have people stationed around the grounds and in the building in period costume ready to provide you with information and answer questions.

Just off the site of the fort is the army bridge built in 1875 of iron. A trike rider from Florida took our picture for us. 

 

Another one of our goals today was to see Mt. Rushmore. Which we did without stopping and paying a ridiculous parking fee. It looks as phoney in real as it does in the pictures but still quite a feat to get up that high and "carve" the mountain away. On the way here we also saw the Chief Crazy Horse carving that is not yet completed and has been in the process for many years.

On our way out of the monument we stopped at a chain saw artist's display where Norma decided she wanted a wooden bear. They did offer to ship but she has a better idea. Why can't Doug just make one for her using the tree that blew down on our bank in the big wind storm last summer?

We then proceeded toward Sturgis, the famous motorcycle rally town that hundreds of thousands of riders make an annual pilgrimage to in August. Sturgis BMW installed a new rear tire on Raindancer shortly after we arrived. There are lots of bikes around as there is a Vietnam Vets MC Club rally here this weekend. One thing we are noticing is the lack of the usual friendly wave that is common etiquette amongst travelling motorcycle riders. Is it because they are mostly Harley riders or merely there are so many bikes around people don't bother? 

 

Boy, did we ever time the end of our day right. It is now raining and the skies are pretty black.

Wheatland, WY 248 km

A beautiful riding day beckoned in the Northern Colorado and Southern Wyoming plains. Clear skies and temperatures in the mid 20s. After a leisurely start to the morning we left Fort Collins with great anticipation and made it as far as Laramie when a Wyoming territory Marshall caught up with us.

He suggested that it would be a good idea to spend (or did he say "do"?) some time in the Wyoming Territory State Prison. Apparently we had little choice.

We received our charges (Norma for manslaughter and me for grand larceny) and our prison numbers 271 and 70 respectively). We then were directed to the cells.

All together we "did" about 2 hours before being pardoned (and we have the papers to prove it). We also toured the prison broom factory while we were there. There was a female "prisoner" in period costume who explained the process. We got the impression that during the higher tourist season there are more people about in costume.

In addition to the prison there were period ranch buildings on display as well. Does anyone know where I can buy the pair of pants that were advertised on a wall?

 After blowing the joint (The Wyoming Territorial Prison State Historic Site) we headed back into the prairie. At one wayside stop on a deserted highway we decided to get a gopher's eye crossing view. The rolling hills for Wyoming are pretty interesting - antelope on the prairies, wind gusts, snow fences including an attempt to grow trees to act as one and an animal research area where they have buffalo and elk in compounds right beside the road - providing turn off areas too so you can safely stop to view. One of the huge buffalo sure didn't let us out of his sights!

Here we are at a little prairie town called Wheatland. People are very friendly and welcoming. We are enjoying the shorter riding days while we take in some of the parks.

Fort Collins, CO 580km

First of all let me introduce you to Roberto. Roberto is our new trip mascot. He is a southern Colorado bobcat from Mesa Verde. Most of our trips seem to acquire a mascot along the way. He is very soft and Norma loves petting him. Is she missing Buster do you think?

 

This morning we left under blue skies and decided to see the Great Sand Dunes Nat'l Park which was not too far from where we stayed last night. It was worth the bit of out of the way travel. There is an area on the dunes where kids - and adults who are kids at heart - can learn to sandboard, which is much like snowboarding but on sand.

We then proceeded in the sunshine to ride over the 9, 413 ft La Veta pass. Before starting up the pass in a small town there was an electronic warning sign saying  "DENSE FOG AHEAD" . Fog? What fog? Only brilliant sunshine - sign must have not been changed. About 15 minutes later with the pass summit still 4 miles away the temperature had dropped about 12C so we stopped put on another layer. We crested the summit at 7C and hit the FOG (read cloud). Which then turned to mist and then to showers that we contended with for the next 100 km. This was the first time the rain gear has been out since we left home.

The weather gradually improved as we headed northward along the interstate. We took a toll road bypass around Denver. They took pictures of our plate and will send us a bill - we will see. The last time that happened was in Ontario 4 years ago and we still have not heard a thing. Anyway it was well worth the toll as there was very little traffic. We stopped in Fort Collins where it is cool but clear. The Calgarians would love it here - one is hard pressed to tell the difference between the two places with all the new growth and malls apparent. We are staying in a beautiful suite hotel with a lounge and the bedroom. The young girl at the desk told Doug to book on line and we could get it for $70 so he sat in the lobby and did just that! We took advantage of the location of one of these strip malls across the street and had a wonderful Japanese dinner and then went to Target to shop.

On the way along the rest stop-less Colorado interstate we took a break and found a teddy bear. We had no room for him - hopefully someone else will.

This lack of rest areas has been a real factor in Colorado as it has found us "resting" on the side of the road in not the safest places when you really need a break. We will see what Wyoming does about the rest areas and fill you in tomorrow.

Alamosa,CO 387 km

Today's plans were twofold: to visit Mesa Verde National Park, the Pueblo cliff dwelling archaeological site and to ride Wolf Creek Pass on highway 160 in Colorado. Check both off.

Mesa Verde National Park is a World Heritage Site of fifty-two thousand acres, with elevations over 8,000 feet. It was a spectacular ride up to the top of the plateau from the valley floor. We spent about 2 hours visiting the Chapin Mesa Museum and taking a walk though "Spruce Tree House", one of the best preserved ruins.

Yes, we took water and emptied the bottle before we got back to the top

Spruce Tree House Cliff Dwelling from across the valley and below from up close

It was pretty impressive seeing this and hearing - we watched a movie - how they built and lived in these dwellings. They needed to be pretty fit to climb up and down. They planted their gardens on the top of the mesa being hunters and gatherers. The museum also had some artifacts - pottery and arrow heads, etc.
Next we attacked the almost 11,000 ft. Wolf Creek Pass.

On the way up Wolf Creek Pass

You may remember Wolf Creek Pass from CW McCall's song of the same title. No? Here is a verse to jog your memory:

Well, from there on down it just wasn't real purdy: it was hairpin county and switchback city. One of 'em looked like a can full'a worms; another one looked like malaria germs. Right in the middle of the whole damn show was a real nice tunnel, now wouldn't you know?

Raindancer out of breath at the top
It was a bit cold with the snow still present in the shadows.

Cortez, CO 460 km

A full day of riding in high 20s-low 30s temperature through beautiful S.Utah's canyon country was the agenda for today. We started out in Capitol Reef Nat'l Park with its spectacular sandstone formations.

We stopped many times to ogle the scenery including the petroglyph (rock drawing) site (you may wish to click the below photo to get a better view).

At one stop was a sandstone cabin occupied by one of the areas settlers and his family of 10 - it was maybe 10X12 (apparently not everyone slept in the cabin - the boys slept in a hollow in the rock behind, the girls slept in the wagon bed and ma and pa and two babes slept inside- and none ate in there- no surprise!).

After exiting the park we took  side trip to the Natural Bridges Nat'l monument to see some of the water carved arches over an old stream bed. Lots of hiking trails throughout the various parks and lots of people heading off on these trails. It would be a bit hot for a hike in our opinion.

 

The predominant stone of the area is erodible red sandstone which is even good for gouging out domiciles. This gas station/store was only about 10 x 10 inside but very cool.

 

 

Tonight we find ourselves in Cortez, Colorado after a great day's ride (we tried to ignore the gusty winds in the canyons and passes). We both really enjoy the red stone scenery. 





 

 

Torrey, UT 468 km

Last night we did a bit more slot machining. Norma continues to win - glad one of us is.

Lots of sagebrush and pinyon pine desert today as we rode from Ely, Nevada to central Utah. The temperature actually reached 34C today for awhile and most of the ride was over 30C. The last pass we rode over was 8300 feet and it was 26C at the top. Needless to say we have stored the cold weather gear for awhile.

This part of Utah is quite panoramic with lush green valleys between mountain passes.  I always like the pinyon pine desert country because of iits unique ecological characteristics including some interesting birds we don't see at home (e.g .scrub jays and broadtailed hummers).

The tourism dept. even has coined the "panorama" title.

Tomorrow we will ride through Capitol Reef National Park and are looking forward to some spectacular scenery that only Utah can offer. Just before we stopped this afternoon we had an appetizer: the beautiful red rock bluffs.

Ely, NV - 508 km

Had a very nice Mexican dinner and evening in Virginia City. Our accommodation for the night was in the Julia Bulette room in the 140+ years old Cobb Mansion - the same B&B we stayed in last year. Julia made her living as a prostitute (apparently a very good one as when she was unfortunately murdered most of Virginia City's miner population turned out for her funeral).

Julia Bulette

The room is tastefully done in a red light theme. Check out 4 poster bed and the bedside lamps! Also a classic Victrola was in the sitting room next door.

 

 

After a wonderful breakfast prepared by Paul and Jeff we headed out to tackle Nevada's Highway 50: the loneliest road in America. We acquired the necessary travel survival guide and passport for the trip (the automobile association does not recommend the highway because of its perils and remoteness and suggests you only travel it if you have good survival skills.). It is actually very scenic and varied with rolling tumble weed -desert - and some nice windy hilly parts. Didn't see any wildlife though lots of signs to watch for the beasts.

 

But here we are! We made it! And we can apparently get a certificate from the State of Nevada to prove it!

Virginia City, NV 43.5 km

Here we are back in Virginia City for the second consecutive year. If you check last year's blog our visit was truncated by a flat tire thus we felt a bit cheated and decided to return to "finish the job".

The weather continues to be gorgeous - cloudless skies- as we wound our way up the mountain from Reno. I had to tear Norma away because she hit a jackpot last night! For once she was up over $600!

Virginia City is, of course, a historic mining town from the 1800s, with a lot of restored buildings, etc. A little more commercialized than our Ft. Steele, but the same idea so we got a lot of walking in today.


We spent a bit of time in the restored catholic church, complete with museum and the "mad monk's room".

The town itself is interesting to walk through with many shops, some of period design. The was the candy shop - these are barrels of some of the old favorites from our childhood - and the Christmas shop - take a ride on an antique Rudolph! The lady offered to take a picture of Doug on him but we knew Doug was a little too big).

 

As we were walking around we did see a sign indicating an ecologically sensitive area. Not sure what it was referring to, the old Dodge truck front or the trees behind!

Tonight we had a very good Mexican dinner at the same restaurant our hosts took us to last year and as a thank you we gave them a jar of huckleberry jam we had managed to bring safely from home.